The LVMH Prize, which is principally the most important award a younger designer can win, is fairly good at recognizing the following large issues in trend. Marine Serre, who received in 2017, is main the trade’s flip towards regenerative trend. Simon Porte Jacquemus, class of 2015, has set the bar for buzzy celeb dressing and viral runway moments to new heights. 2016 winner Grace Wales Bonner’s Adidas sneaker collabs are on the toes of nearly each downtown artistic in each metropolis on earth.
This yr’s winners had been introduced this morning. And in one more signal that a number of the most fascinating concepts in trend are coming from menswear, the jury—designers Kim Jones, Stella McCartney, Nigo, Jonathan Anderson, and Silvia Venturini Fendi, amongst others—solid their votes for a trio whose menswear roots run deep.
Taking residence the highest prize was Steven Stokey Daley of S.S. Daley, famously considered one of Harry Types’ favourite labels. The runners-up (who obtained the second annual Karl Lagerfeld Prize) had been two Individuals: Dior collaborator Eli Russel Linnetz of ERL, and gradual trend specialist Idris Balogun of Winnie New York.
In a Zoom interview after the awards had been introduced, Linnetz and Balogun had been nonetheless processing the truth that they’re now, primarily, the torch-bearers for rising American males’s trend. “No less than for the following yr!” Linnetz mentioned. Balogun added: “We didn’t even understand until any person else mentioned it. It’s stunning, as a result of we each have very dynamic issues to say, Eli from Venice Seaside and me from my background of Nigerian heritage via London to New York.”
Of all of the designers nominated for the prize, Linnetz might need probably the most established model, when it comes to pop cultural consciousness. He pulled off probably the most memorable moments of final yr’s Met Gala by dressing A$AP Rocky in a promenade tuxedo and big quilt cape, and final month guest-designed Dior’s sunscreen-soaked Spring 23 assortment with Kim Jones. Winnie New York, against this, remains to be pretty area of interest. As of this morning, Winnie has simply shy of 9,000 Instagram followers, and Balogun is extra a deep researcher and patternmaking perfectionist than pop cultural savant. Balogun—a Burberry and Tom Ford alum—makes a speciality of quiet luxurious: blazers completed with painstaking hand particulars discovered at his first Savile Row job, which he landed at age of 14.