The headliner could be these very high-end Grandmaster Chimes, however the remainder of the Patek assortment is notable, too, for being so sporty. Final 12 months, at W&W, the model appeared to pointedly take away itself from the game watch dialog, deading the beloved 5711 Nautilus and skipping new fashions from that line and the Aquanaut, Patek’s different sport assortment. Patek is making one other 180 this 12 months, increasing the Aquanaut line, the much more informal and athletic little brother to the Nautilus, with three new grown-up additions. The primary is straightforward, with a brown-dial model and a chronograph. Issues escalate rapidly from there. Patek used rose-gold for all three of the brand new Aquanauts, which matches notably nicely with the navy-dial mannequin bolstered with an annual calendar and moonphase. The final of the trio is—why the hell not?—set with 48 diamonds on the bezel.
My favourite of the brand new Pateks, although, could also be three colourful Calatravas. Patek debuted this reference in 2020 to have fun the opening of a brand new producer and is now increasing the vary with extra informal watches. I all the time respect when the always-elegant Patek will get a bit unfastened—it’s like seeing James Bond change out of his tux and into his Barbour jacket. Every new Calatrava comes with a distinct accent shade: purple, sky blue, and yellow. The purple and yellow, particularly, have a pleasant racing chew to them.
With this assortment, Patek was apparently hellbent on proving it will probably do sport watches in addition to anybody. It rapidly pivots from the world of racing to pilot watches. The reference 5924 takes Patek’s Pilot-style watch, with these chunky can’t-miss numerals, and provides a chronograph for the primary time. The watch is available in customary navy however I actually love the khaki-green mannequin. And should you’re extra snug within the aircraft’s cabin than the cockpit, Patek additionally has a brand new GMT. The model’s spin on the travel-time complication options the 24-hour markers set straight onto the dial.
Patek’s full-throated re-commitment to sports activities permeates the complete assortment. This 12 months, even the flamboyant watches are imbued with a sure je ne sais sport. Patek’s two collections are divided into two classes, certainly one of which is house to solely the ritziest of items and described because the “Uncommon Handcraft” choice. Here’s a model of the Calatrava with a miniature portray accomplished completely by hand. This uncommon, painstakingly accomplished artwork contains a purple racecar impressed by the 1948 Nations Grand Prix.
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