One of many most lovely new watches to emerge this spring doesn’t truly look very new in any respect. It’s the Patek Philippe reference 5172G-010, a white‑gold, hand-wound chronograph with a stunning salmon dial. It’s a contemporary mannequin that borrows a few of Patek’s most honored design strikes. In reality, once I first noticed the watch, I assumed I knew it already. The brand new 5172G nearly teases the wearer with a way of déjà vu: The protruding “field” crystal, syringe palms, and stepped bezel and lugs look ripped from the pages of classic Patek catalogs. As Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern explains, “It seems like it’s from the previous, however it’s made for the current,” underscoring the push on the firm to replace its iconic design historical past for a brand new buyer. At Patek, this kind of watchmaking is named a “classic up to date.”
Get used to listening to the time period. Throughout the watch world, manufacturers—and clients—are embracing a fairly vintage sensibility. As in vogue, watchmaking within the aughts was outlined by absurd sizes and baroque design options. However the pendulum all the time swings again. On the time, I bear in mind the late Luigi “Gino” Macaluso, the then proprietor of Girard-Perregaux, predicting that the trendy European buyer would quickly be clamoring to purchase easy, time-only watches that measured round 36 mm throughout—or in regards to the dimension of any effective midcentury timepiece. He was proper: Within the years that adopted, case diameters shrank and bought slimmer. The easy great thing about a three-hand watch face snapped into sharp focus too. One of many absolute hottest watches proper now’s the aptly named Philippe Dufour Simplicity. Dufour has been crafting a handful of the clear, time-only designs every year for the previous 20 years. Within the early days, you may purchase one for round $35,000. In recent times, a number of Simplicities have hammered for over $1 million at public sale.
Such is the cult of the watch world at the moment that manufacturers can create extra hype round recognizable outdated watch elements than round new designs. Take Vacheron Constantin’s cornes de vache (cow horns) lugs, which have been exhumed from the Swiss model’s archives and reintroduced in the course of the final decade. I bear in mind vintage-watch fanatics describing them—the lugs, not simply the watch—as in the event that they have been explaining a fresco by Michelangelo. My favourite encomium got here from Hodinkee, which referred to as them “beautiful, expressive, and masterful.” Which could appear foolish, nevertheless it signifies one thing nice: that we’re in a golden age of horological literacy, the place an in depth appreciation of watchmaking historical past feels extra attention-grabbing than any new technological leap.
This nostalgia kick has additionally led to nearer inspection of firm archives, and types with a wealthy again catalog have been mining a fecund seam of heritage. Some have up to date classic fashions with fashionable supplies and actions. Personally, I used to be very completely happy to see the 2020 return of Breitling’s AVI mannequin in an nearly museum-quality revival supervised by Breitling fundamentalist Fred Mandelbaum, whose pitch-perfect retreads have been a welcome function of the model’s rebirth. Over at Omega, the dynamic Raynald Aeschlimann has additionally redeployed the model’s classics masterfully. I’ve all the time liked the solid-gold “Nixon-spec” Speedmaster, issued to have a good time the moon touchdown in 1969. With its revival half a century later, it options such traditionally right touches as an oxblood bezel and onyx hour markers—however with a motion that meets exacting new fashionable requirements. In the meantime, at Cartier, Cyrille Vigneron has introduced the model’s watchmaking firmly again into the dialog by revisiting such Artwork Deco classics because the Tank Chinoise, which is able to return this 12 months with a brand-new dial that nods to historical Chinese language design.
At a time when artwork and vogue are chasing improvements within the metaverse, there’s nothing extra satisfying than seeing the thrill round neo-vintage timepieces that incorporate historic creative touches. The 5172G may look acquainted, nevertheless it truly displays a radical artistic path: Probably the most revolutionary means ahead in watchmaking will be discovered by trying backward.
A model of this story initially appeared within the Might 2022 problem of GQ with the title “Why the Coolest New Watches Look Like Classic Grails”.