Womenswear Legend Phoebe Philo Is Back. Menswear Heads Rejoice

Phoebe Philo will debut her long-awaited eponymous model this fall, the designer introduced, breaking the information on Thursday through a easy textual content slide posted to a newly created eponymous Instagram account.

Per the put up, the canonically offline British designer’s “inaugural assortment might be revealed and out there on our web site, phoebephilo.com, in September 2023.” (For now, that URL presently results in a site identify system error.)

Charmingly, the textual content continues: “We might be opening for registration in July 2023 and stay up for being again in contact then.”

Philo’s decade-long tenure at Céline has loomed massive within the trend consciousness since effectively earlier than she left the LVMH-owned model (and largely stepped away from the general public eye) in 2018. The Philophile radar spiked in 2021, when the designer first introduced her intention to launch her personal namesake line in early 2022, solely to flatline once more when that date got here and went. 

Philo’s womenswear had critical menswear accolades, even lengthy earlier than her successor, Hedi Slimane, launched correct menswear at Celine in her wake. Her designs, which regularly featured elegantly saggy trousers, collared shirts, sharp trench coats, and low-profile sneakers, in addition to Philo’s personal understated, spot-on private fashion garnered her loads of famously fashionable followers. (She was a pioneering determine within the 2010s Stan Smiths revival.) In 2011, Ye famously wore a patterned silk shirt from Céline’s spring assortment onstage at Coachella, not lengthy after he’d namechecked the designer within the album opener of My Lovely Darkish Twisted Fantasy; Travis Scott was noticed sporting the identical shirt years later. Whereas attending Paris Vogue Week in 2019, Frank Ocean paired his Philo-era Céline inexperienced leather-based tote with an orange Marmot down jacket. Anybody may very well be a Philophile, which is a notion which will or might not compel the designer to create males’s or gender-neutral clothes for her personal model.

And maybe as one other signal of trend’s previous making a warmly welcomed comeback, Philo might even develop into a pivotal participant in a possible re-serification of high-fashion branding: the Instagram announcement, which was rendered in white Occasions New Roman script on a black background, included a easy, substantial serif emblem. In mild of Philo’s Céline protégée Daniel Lee kicking off his Burberry tenure with a brand new old-world emblem earlier this week, it seems that Phoebe Philo will, too, be a serif font model—which, if the chatter is any indication, appears to be as a lot an ideological alternative as an aesthetic one.

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